As Ecuador’s third-largest city, Cuenca is no new discovery among foreigners. In fact, it’s known for being one of the best places in the world to retire to. That’s not surprising, considering the gorgeous colonial architecture and cobbled streets, the low cost of living, and the relative ease of access to everyday conveniences that westerners are used to.
However, Cuenca was not the first city to stand in its place. The Incan city of Tomebamba occupied the site up until the Incan Civil War of the 1520s. When the Spanish arrived, they found the ruins of a city that was said to have rivalled Cusco in Peru with its grandeur. The city of Cuenca itself was founded on April 12, 1557. Today, its centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Trust site, due to the many historically important buildings that are clustered within.
A stroll through Cuenca’s centro histórico can begin anywhere. Without a handy sense of direction, you’ll still find yourself stumbling upon epic cathedrals and a series of cobbled streets that make you want to trade in your current life for a new, more romantic ideal. But, for now, we’ll start at the river.
Stop 1: Yacimiento Archeologico de Todos Santos
An interesting site, that may be missed if you’re really sticking to the city’s core, is an archeological site that sits near the river. In 1972, the ruins of Todos los Santos were found during an excavation project. There is evidence of both Incan and Spanish construction in the space, giving a unique glimpse of these two cultures occupying the same geographic space.
Stop 2: Puente Roto
After finishing with the ruins, turn left up Calle Larga. After just a minute, you’ll come to Puente Roto—the Broken Bridge. Constructed between 1840 and 1850, this bridge was destroyed by flooding of the Rio Tomebamba in 1950. Today, it looks strangely unfinished. Though, it does act as a meeting place of sorts for plenty of events and festivities throughout the year.
Stop 3: Iglesia Patrimonial de Todos Santos
The Todos Santos complex itself is one of the most important historical sites in Cuenca. The church is quite large, extending the length of several blocks. A pearly white complex on the edge of an intersection, it doesn’t get as much attention as some of Cuenca’s other churches.
Stop 4: Catedral Vieja (Iglesia del Sagrario)
During Spanish colonization, this was the main place of worship in the city. Planning for the church began in 1557, while construction commenced 10 years later. Today, it houses the Museum for Religious Art. It flanks the Parque Calderon, sitting opposite the Catedral Nueva.
Stop 5: Nueva Catedral (Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción)
The New Cathedral of Cuenca sits opposite the Old Cathedral. Construction here began in 1885, lasting for almost a century. The sky-blue domes of this massive cathedral have become iconic—perhaps the city’s most recognizable architectural detail. These days, you can attend packed services several times a day.
Stop 6: Plaza de las flores & Iglesia El Carmen de la Asuncion
A city with a daily flower market seems like a thing of fairytales—and, sometimes, that’s exactly what Cuenca feels like. Nestled beside the Catedral Nueva sits Iglesia El Carmen de la Asuncion, constructed in 1730 in a Renaissance style. Its plaza is home to the daily flower market, which is probably the most scenic and colourful event in the city.
Stop 7: Iglesia Santo Domingo
The second-largest church in Cuenca, Iglesia Santo Domingo is known for its stunning and detailed interior ceiling—just don’t drop by in the middle of a church service if you are hoping to see it.
Stop 8: Iglesia de San Francisco
The Iglesia de San Francisco is one of the representative icons of Cuenca, admired for its neoclassical architecture and baroque features.
Stop 9: Plaza de San Francisco
At the end of a long walk, it’s always nice to peruse a market—even if it’s filled with a whole lot of mass-produced junk. Luckily, the Plaza de San Francisco does have a few stalls selling handmade items, with some food vendors lining the nearby streets.
While Cuenca is known for its historic churches and various significant architectural features, part of its beauty is in the colonial feel that dominates the old city’s streets. Here, any corner can yield romanticism and fantasies of day-to-day living in a city cemented in time.
I would like to thank Marie for her wonderful contribution to The Heritage Travels. Marie King is a Canadian travel writer with a million plans at all times. She is currently traveling through South America, writing about veganism, minimalist living, and getting inspired in the outdoors. Follow her adventures at marieaway.com. You can also follow her journey on Social Media:
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Cuenca appears to be an extremely charming South American city. Our favorite thing to do in a new place is simply walk around and explore. Though I will be honest, having some direction (like this post) is super helpful and ultimately leads to us actually LEARNING more about it the city. I’d love to see these churches in person someday!
Alana recently posted…Hiking in Santorini: Fira to Oia
One main reason why I very much prefer traveling solo is because I love visiting historical sites like these!
Erica recently posted…Bali’n On A Budget– Tips For Your Bali Honeymoon
How amazing, looks very historic! 🙂
This looks like just the thing that would interest me. Will have to try and remember this when I get around to visiting Ecuador! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Curious Claire recently posted…Would You Eat a Burger from a Toilet?
Now, you just gave me another reason to fly to Ecuador as early as I can! 😉 Great post here!
Thanks for the tips, i might be going there soon! 🙂
I like the ruins. Seems nice. That market area seems too crowded though. Did you buy something?
Karla | karlaroundtheworld recently posted…High Flying For A Day With Heliservices Hong Kong
These pictures are gorgeous – I love all those cathedrals and churches. It would be great to know more about the inside of them too. Which was your favourite? They all look so beautiful.
I just visited Cuenca a few months ago and can see why so many people go there to retire. I’m not much of a city person but I really enjoyed the low key atmosphere of this place.
Hmm. I’ve been to Ecuador but this is a new city I wasn’t familiar with. Nice description.
Bookmarking this for when we head to Ecuador! Great list.
anna recently posted…The Complete Guide to Traveling Around the Philippines
I’ve been researching Ecuador lately and I loved taking this stroll with you. The historic center looks like a great place to walk, take photos, and see daily life. Thanks for sharing!
Jackie | The Globetrotting Teacher recently posted…How to Explore Lower Manhattan Like a Local
I love your images! Historical sights are some of my favorite.
I knew Quito was a big retirement and expat spot but I didn’t know anything about Cuenca! Love the old colonial architecture and churches, they’re so photogenic!
James Kelley recently posted…Taking A Dip In The World’s Coolest Infinity Pool
You have a remarkable eye for photography. Enjoyed all the architecture!
melody pittman recently posted…A Little Bit About My Town- Vero Beach
Im not a history buff but I do love cathedrals – especially in the summer, its perfect place to chill down. But I do love markets, I spent a lot of time on markets during my travels. Safe travels!
Wowwwwww…. Awesome blog over here….nice photo shoots…Love all your designs.